Lawn Care and Maintenance

Watering

Recommendations:

Water immediately after installation and each day 2 times a day. It is best to
water during the early morning hours to reduce water loss by evaporation,
before 9 a.m. and again between noon and 3 p.m. Stick to this schedule for
approximately 3 weeks. Do not water in the evening to reduce the possibility of
disease development by the grass remaining wet at night. Overwatering can
promote weed and disease development.

Bahia:
The average established Bahia lawn will require 1 to 2 applications per week
during the summer and 0 to 1 applications a week during the cooler parts of the
year.

St. Augustine Floratam, Palmetto and Seville:
The average established St. Augustine lawn will require 2 to 3 applications per
week during the summer and 1 to 2 applications during the cooler part of the
year.

Bermuda:
The average established Bermuda lawn will require 2 to 3 applications per week
during the summer and 1 to 2 applications during the cooler part of the year.

Empire Zoysia:
To maintain a high quality lawn, Zoysia grass will require 2 to 3 applications per
week during the summer and 1 to 2 applications during the cooler part of the
year.

Mowing

Proper mowing practices are important in maintaining the health of your lawn.
The first mowing for newly planted grass should not be done until the grass is
rooted.  The quickest means of checking this is to reach down and try to pull up a
piece. If you feel resistance, it is safe to mow.  Regular mowing at the proper
height will cause the least stress on your grass. You should not let your grass grow
to extreme heights and then mow off more than 1/3 of its height at one time.
It is important to maintain sharp mower blades so that the grass is cut and not
torn. Dull blades that shred the leaf will give your lawn a brownish cast. Due to its
tough leaf, Bahia will require more frequent blade sharpening than other grasses.
Grass clippings can be left on the lawn that is mowed at the proper height and
frequency. Not only does this reduce the strain on landfills, but the clippings do
return nutrients to the soil. An exception might be if you’ve let your grass get too
high and excessive clumps are formed when you mow.

Bahia:
Bahia should be cut in the height range of 3-4 inches. This height can usually be
maintained by setting your mower at its highest wheel position. Mowing too
close or scalping is one of the most common damaging factors in Bahia grass.

St. Augustine Floratam, Palmetto and Seville:
The various varieties of St. Augustine have different growth habits and thus
require different mowing heights. Floratam, the most commonly used variety,
should be cut in the height range of 3-4 inches. This height can usually be
maintained by setting your mower at its highest wheel position. Seville, a semi-
dwarf variety, should be mowed at about 2 inches. Palmetto can be mowed in
the range of 2-3 inches, although if you have both Palmetto and Floratam in your
yard, they could be mowed at the same 3-4 inch range.

Bermuda:
Bermuda should be cut in the height range of 3/4 to 1 1/2 inches. This height
usually requires mowing at least once a week. A reel mower is preferred to mow
Bermuda because it can be adjusted more accurately for such short mowing
heights as well as giving a much cleaner cut than a rotary.

Zoysia:
Zoysia should be cut in the height range of 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches. This height usually
requires mowing at least once a week during peak growing weather and every
10 to 14 days during the rest of the year. A reel mower is preferred to mow Zoysia
because it can be adjusted more accurately for such short mowing heights as
well as giving a much cleaner cut than a rotary.

Fertilizing

The most common variable in establishing a fertilizer program is soil and its ability
to hold onto nutrients. Rich soils have good nutrient retention and thus require
fewer applications. Sandy soils leach nutrients quickly and consequently require
more frequent applications.  It is not advisable to apply during the heat of the
summer. There are many formulas and brands of fertilizer on the market, so one
particular type is not recommended over another. Nitrogen is always the first
number of the three major nutrients (e.g., 12-3-8, 16-4-8, etc.- where nitrogen is
the higher number). It is suggested that the higher nitrogen formulas be used
during the spring and fall, whereas any other applications should be more
balanced (e.g., 6-6-6, 8-8-8, etc.). In all cases, use a good quality fertilizer that
contains a mixture of minor (secondary or trace) elements. Usually, the higher
percentage of nitrogen that is organic the longer lasting, though slower
reacting, the fertilizer will be.  It is usually suggested that you wait about 1 month
before fertilizing newly planted grass. If you want to apply something before that
time, either apply at about half the normal rate or use a slow release type like
Milorganite that won’t burn the newly emerging roots.  It is best not to use a
"weed & feed" type of fertilizer. These types contain a herbicide (weed killer)
that could injure new sod. The best defense against weeds is a healthy lawn and
herbicides should be saved for cases where weeds are already becoming
established because of a turf grass that has been weakened by other causes.
Whatever type of fertilizer you use, it is very important that you follow the label
directions as to rate, time of application, etc.

Bahia:
Due to its use in lower maintenance areas, Bahia is not generally fertilized as
heavily. However, if you feel that fertilizing is a necessity, please close follow the
general instructions previously mentioned.

St. Augustine Floratam, Palmetto and Seville:
St. Augustine lawns generally like high nitrogen levels. There are many formulas
and brands of fertilizer on the market, so one particular type is not
recommended over another. Contact the Department of Agriculture for further
information

Bermuda:
Generally, Bermuda grasses require higher levels of fertilizer than other Florida
turf grasses. When Bermuda is used in lawn areas it should be fertilized from 4 to 6
times per year. It is best not to apply during the heat of summer.

Zoysia:
To look their best, Zoysia grasses require 4 to 6 fertilizer applications per year. It is
best not to apply during the heat of summer.

Disease

There are generally two types of disease problems in turf grass: those that
involve less obvious signs such as root and stem rot, and those that exhibit some
type of clearly visible leaf spot. There are many different species within those
two groups, some of which can only be accurately identified by laboratory
analysis. Turf grass diseases can be chemically controlled with the proper use of
fungicides. If you suspect a disease problem, check with a spray service, county
agricultural agent, or a knowledgeable garden center for recommendations on
the proper chemical.  From a cultural standpoint, the most common factor
favoring disease development is over watering, as most pathogens require a
moist environment. This can be a particular problem in shady areas as they are
slow to dry out.  A healthy turf grass that is watered, fertilized, and mowed
properly is much more resistant to disease and recovers faster if it is attacked.
Pests

Bahia:
The major pest of Bahia grass is the mole cricket. It burrows through the soil and
damages the roots. Damage symptoms will usually appear as rapid wilting and
general poor health. Army worms and grass loopers can also damage Bahia,
although it is rare as Bahia’s tough leaf blade is not as palatable to them.
Damage symptoms are chewed leaves that left untreated will be eaten down
to the stem (as if scalped by a mower set too low).Most of the time the above
insects are active during the warmer part of the year. There are many pesticide
formulas and brands available for controlling such pests so it is advisable to
consult with a spray service or a knowledgeable garden center for the product
that is right for the problem.

St. Augustine Floratam, Palmetto and Seville:
The major pest of St. Augustine grass is the chinch bug. The Floratam variety is
the only type currently available to show any resistance to the chinch bug. Even
that resistance, though, seems to be limited to smaller concentrations of bugs.
Large populations will also damage Floratam.  Damage symptoms will usually
appear as areas that are wilting and not responding to watering. The areas will
progress from yellow to brown and gradually get larger as the bugs work their
way out.  Other common insect pests include sod webworms, armyworms, and
grass loopers. Damage symptoms are chewed leaves that left untreated will be
eaten down to the stem (as if scalped by a mower set too low). Most of the time
the above insects are active during the warmer part of the year. There are many
pesticide formulas and brands available for controlling such pests so it is
advisable to consult with a spray service or a knowledgeable garden center for
the product that is right for the problem.

Bermuda:
A major pest of Bermuda grass is the mole cricket. It burrows through the soil and
damages the roots. Damage symptoms will usually appear as rapid wilting and
general poor health.  Other common insect pests include sod webworms,
armyworms, and grass loopers. Damage symptoms are chewed leaves that left
untreated will be eaten down to the stem (as if scalped by a mower set too low).
Bermuda grass mites are another common pest. Because the mite is so small it is
difficult to see and gives the general symptoms of pale grass color with
abnormal leaf curling.
Most of the time the above insects are active during the warmer part of the
year. There are many pesticide formulas and brands available for controlling
such pests so it is advisable to consult with a spray service or a knowledgeable
garden center for the product that is right for the problem.

Zoysia:
The most serious pest of Zoysia grass is the billbug. It feeds on the roots and the
grass dies in irregular patches. As with all root damage, initial symptoms appear
as areas that are wilting and not responding to water. Other common insect
pests include sod webworms, armyworms, and grass loopers. Damage symptoms
are chewed leaves that left untreated will be eaten down to the stem (as if
scalped by a mower set too low). Most of the time the above insects are active
during the warmer part of the year. There are many pesticide formulas and
brands available for controlling such pests so it is advisable to consult with a
spray service or a knowledgeable garden center for the product that is right for
the problem.

Weeds

Weeds are almost always a secondary problem. A healthy, properly maintained
turf grass will offer a great deal of resistance to weed development. Weed
presence usually indicates a weakness of some sort caused by improper
fertilizing, overwatering, mowing too short, insect or disease infestation, etc. If
your grass has been weakened and weeds are emerging, there are herbicides for
most species.  Success in fighting weeds after they have become established
depends on proper identification of the weed, finding the right herbicide that
controls that type of weed, and the proper application of the chemical. It is very
important that you only use weed killers that are compatible with the type of
grass in your lawn and that you use the correct rate of application.